Coppercoat Application and Hardstand Diary

Transitioning to a long-life copper-epoxy system like Coppercoat is one of the most rewarding decisions for a boat owner. The driving force behind this decision is the system’s 10-15 years of longevity. Furthermore, if future patching or renewal is required, there is no nightmare of stripping back to the gelcoat; you simply abrade the surface lightly with 60-grit sandpaper and apply the new coats directly.

However, the most critical factor is not the paint itself, but the surface preparation. Below is a real-time Coppercoat transition diary, executed personally on Galene Nomad at Setur Yalova Marina.

1. The Team, Equipment, and Environmental Care

Moreover, in an environment filled with toxic antifouling dust, they performed miracles by meticulously cleaning the workspace and tools at the end of each day, showing immense respect for the environment.

To ensure the epoxy and Coppercoat left no lint or roller marks, solvent-resistant short-nap (mohair) rollers were stocked. Material choices were strictly tailored around the ambient air temperatures, which drastically shorten the epoxy’s pot life.

2. Strategic Decision: Paint Stripper

To protect the gelcoat, a solvent-free stripper, Owatrol Marine Strip, was chosen. Solvents from strong strippers can outgas for weeks, causing blisters under the new epoxy layer. However, Owatrol only dissolved the single-part antifouling, leaving the old two-part epoxy primers unaffected. This necessitated an intensive mechanical scraping process.

📅 Real-Time Hardstand Diary and Work Schedule

Day 1 (Saturday): Haul-out and Chemical Stripping Attempt

• The boat was hauled out and high-pressure washed.
• We waited until 19:00 for the hull to dry, then applied Owatrol and left it for 12 hours to avoid any solvent outgassing risks.

Day 2 (Sunday) – Day 5 (Wednesday): The Sanding Marathon

• Realizing Owatrol couldn’t touch the epoxy primer, Cemal, Selami, and I switched to mechanical scrapers and vacuum-assisted orbital sanders.
• For 4 straight days, the hull was stripped to bare gelcoat. The rust and old coatings on the cast-iron keel were ground down to bright, bare metal.

Day 6 (Thursday): Keel Epoxy Application (Critical Phase)

The keel is highly susceptible to “flash rust.” For this phase, West System products (105 Resin, 209 Extra Slow Hardener, 406 Colloidal Silica, and 407 Low-Density Filler) were selected. The 209 Extra Slow Hardener was vital to extend the pot life and allow workable time in the warm weather.

• Wet-Abrading: Immediately after grinding, pure West System epoxy was rolled onto the bare metal. While wet, we sanded through the liquid epoxy with coarse grit. This forces the resin into the metal pores without letting oxygen touch the steel, eliminating flash rust.
• We then faired the keel using an easily sandable mixture of epoxy and 407 filler. 406 silica was used as a structural thickener where sagging needed to be prevented.

Day 7 (Friday): Amine Blush Removal and Sealing

• Curing epoxy fairing compound produces a water-soluble byproduct called Amine Blush. This was scrubbed off using green Scotch-Brite and fresh water. It was immediately dried with paper towels so the amines wouldn’t settle back onto the surface.
• The dried surface was sanded to a matte finish, and then 3 coats of pure epoxy were applied using the “wet-on-tacky” method (no sanding required between coats) to fully seal the keel.

Day 8 (Saturday): The Coppercoat Marathon

• Early morning, the hull and keel were washed with Scotch-Brite and lightly dulled one last time.
• After masking, Coppercoat application began using the short-nap rollers.
• Coat Intervals: 6 coats were applied continuously. Each new coat went on when the previous one became “tacky” (sticky to the touch but no paint transfers to the finger), which took about 30-60 minutes depending on the temperature.
• Finished at 16:00. Masking tapes were pulled while the paint was still wet.

72 Hours Later: The Lift-Up (Pad Shifting)

• The boat was left untouched for 72 hours so the Coppercoat could cure and become pressure-resistant.
• Suspended in the travel lift, the cradle pads were shifted.
• The newly exposed bare patches underwent the exact same meticulous process locally (sanding, pure epoxy sealing, and wet-on-tacky Coppercoat).

A Special Thanks and Conclusion

During this challenging and stressful hardstand period, we were racing not only against technical difficulties but also against time and weather conditions. It is in moments like these that one truly understands the value of friends who stand shoulder-to-shoulder with you and neighbors with warm smiles.

First and foremost, my endless gratitude goes to my dear friends Captain Cemal and Captain Selami (aka Atom Ant), who swallowed the sanding dust with me from early morning until dark, working with immense effort and environmental care. I am profoundly grateful to my beloved neighbors Captain Hande (Deep Blue Sea), Captain Nezih (Emela), Captain Sarp (Senna), and Captian Kadir(Tuzlu 2) for being by my side, keeping our morale high, and making our coffee breaks beautiful during those exhausting days in the yard; and to Captain Fırat (Sailing Mia) for his support and for sharing his valuable experience.

Finally, I would like to open a special parenthesis for the Setur Yalova Marina team, who showed us extraordinary understanding and unwavering support in every single matter throughout this marathon. I offer my deepest gratitude to Marina Manager Ümit Gölgeci, whose support we felt from the very beginning to the end, as well as to Mustafa, Ayşe, Sinan and all the other marina employees whose solution-oriented approach both in the office and in the yard made our work incredibly easier.

Without all of your professional and warm attitudes, getting through this demanding refit process so smoothly would simply not have been possible. Fair winds and following seas!

Bonus Chapter: Pre-Application Preparation and Procedure

(Prepared before the work. The details encountered as a result of the procedure are included in the article published above. In addition, the parts marked in parentheses are post-work experiences.)

BAVARIA 36 — HULL AND KEEL MAINTENANCE PROTOCOL

(Marine Strip Application · Gelcoat and Metal Keel Preparation · West System Epoxy Procedures · Coppercoat Pre-Application Surface Preparation Technical Guide)

1. Marine Strip Application and Scraping

1.1 The Most Critical Preparation: Aluminum Protection Shield

⚠ Vital Warning: The Bavaria 36 features a Volvo Penta saildrive system and an aluminum/bronze propeller. Marine Strip must absolutely not be used on aluminum surfaces; otherwise, it will severely damage and corrode the metal.

• What to Do: Before starting the application, the saildrive leg, the propeller, and all aluminum/metal components that you do not want to strip must be flawlessly wrapped and protected using thick plastic sheeting and high-quality masking tape.
• Field Experience Note: Saildrive maintenance on the Galene Nomad was performed separately, and strict measures were taken to ensure it never came into direct contact with Coppercoat or the stripper.

1.2 Proper Weather and Environmental Conditions

• Temperature Range: The application must be carried out in temperatures between 5°C and 35°C.
• Shade Preference: Marine Strip should never be applied under intense direct sunlight or onto a scorching hot hull. If possible, start working on the shaded sides of the boat or prefer the late afternoon hours.
• Field Experience Note: The application specifically commenced in the evening hours to avoid the sun. During the process, the lowest recorded air temperature was 22°C, providing an ideal working window.

Apply a thick coat of Marine Strip onto the gelcoat using a synthetic brush or a synthetic roller. Applying the product too thinly will not be sufficient to dissolve thick layers of antifouling paint. Thanks to its gel structure, the product will cling to vertical surfaces without sagging.

1.3 Application Technique and Thickness

Apply a thick coat of Marine Strip onto the gelcoat using a synthetic brush or a synthetic roller. Applying the product too thinly will not be sufficient to dissolve thick layers of antifouling paint. Thanks to its gel structure, the product will cling to vertical surfaces without sagging.

1.4 Waiting (Contact) Time and Preventing Drying

• Timing: Marine Strip must be given at least 12 hours of contact time to completely soften the old antifouling paints. Therefore, applying it in the late afternoon and leaving it to work overnight is the most efficient method.
• Drying Control: Absolutely do not allow the product to dry on the surface. If you notice it beginning to dry due to wind or heat, lightly mist it with fresh water to keep it moist. The water will reactivate the gel.

1.5 Scraping and Removal Tips Without Scratching the Gelcoat

• Down-to-Up: When cleaning vertical surfaces, always work from the bottom up to prevent streaks.
• Scraper Selection: Instead of sharp metal scrapers, use hard plastic scrapers or wide spatulas with rounded edges that carry no risk of scratching the gelcoat. Since the paint will soften into a jelly-like consistency, heavy scraping force will not be needed.
• Pressure Washing & The Hot Water Miracle: You can use a stiff synthetic scrubbing brush and paint scrapers to remove the softened paint and gel. Alternatively, using a pressure washer set to a maximum of 60 bar (870 psi) will make the job incredibly easy. If available, using hot water during the rinse greatly facilitates the dissolution and removal of the paint.

1.6 Cleaning Chemical Residues and Rinsing

• After the paint is removed, absolutely no chemical film must remain on the gelcoat. Otherwise, the epoxy primer to be applied later will not adhere to the surface.
• Since gelcoat is a non-porous plastic derivative, there is no need to use an acidic neutralizer (like Deck Cleaner) as you would on wood. Once the scraping process is completely finished, washing and rinsing the entire hull with plenty of fresh, clean water is entirely sufficient.

💡 NOTE: Metal Keel Preparation with Marine Strip Owatrol Marine Strip can be safely used on the keel (cast iron/metal). It is completely safe on all metals (except aluminum), gelcoat, and wood. However, using a stripper on the keel is technically optional and should be decided based on the condition of the old antifouling.

• Why Use It? If there is thick, layered old antifouling on the keel, attacking it directly with an orbital sander or grinder will cause the sanding discs to clog up with heated antifouling within seconds. Applying Marine Strip to soften the old paint and removing the bulk of it with a spatula makes the subsequent “bright metal” sanding phase incredibly easy and saves materials.
• When to Sand Directly? If the old antifouling on the keel is already a very thin layer, you can skip the stripper and go straight to scraping with a twisted wire cup brush or coarse sandpaper (36-40-60 grit).
• The Golden Technical Rule: Even if a paint stripper is used, you must sand/grind the metal keel until it shines (clean gray/metal color) immediately before applying the West System epoxy. Epoxy must bond to a clean, unoxidized metal surface.

2. Gelcoat Sanding (80–120 Grit) Phase

After stripping the old antifouling down to the gelcoat with Marine Strip and thoroughly rinsing and drying the hull, it is time for one of the most critical phases: gelcoat sanding. Epoxy systems (both your West System primer and Coppercoat) cannot chemically bond to non-porous hard plastic surfaces like gelcoat; they require a completely mechanical tooth (Secondary Bond) to adhere.

A. Proper Equipment and Sandpaper Selection

• Equipment: A dust-extraction professional orbital sander must be used. Hand sanding will not provide a homogeneous profile and is exhausting.
• Field Experience Note: Flap discs must absolutely not be used. During initial scraping trials, it was observed that flap discs used previously had gouged and damaged the gelcoat in certain areas. An orbital sander performs the abrasion evenly without destroying the hull profile.
• Grit Selection: Coppercoat and West System manuals mandate 80 to 120 grit sanding discs for gelcoat preparation. If there are minor irregularities and old primer residues, start with 80 grit and finish with 120 grit to smooth the surface.

B. Application Technique and Visual Control

• Move the sander in circular motions over the gelcoat evenly without applying heavy pressure.
• The Goal: To remove all gloss from the gelcoat and achieve a completely dull surface. When sanding is finished, inspect the hull by shining a light horizontally across it; there should not be a single shiny or slick spot left. Any remaining shiny spot is a weak link where Coppercoat will eventually flake off.

C. Osmosis and Gelcoat Damage Inspection

Once the gelcoat is completely dulled, inspect the hull very carefully. If you see small, hernia-like blisters (osmosis blisters), pop them with the tip of a spatula to check if acidic fluid comes out. Suspicious areas should be opened up with localized sanding according to the West System manual. The prepared West System epoxy filler (105/206 + 407) is an excellent material for repairing these spots.

D. Sanding Dust Removal and the Solvent Rule

• When the sanding is finished, a massive amount of fine dust will accumulate on the hull. First, sweep this dust off with a soft brush or a dry cloth.

⚠ Fatal Warning: Never use acetone, thinner, or similar oil-based solvents to clean the remaining micro-dust and grease from the hull. Acetone can leave an invisible waxy residue on the gelcoat, completely blocking the epoxy’s adhesion.

• Proper Method: Wash the hull with fresh water and let it dry, or wipe it down with clean microfiber cloths soaked in Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA).

3. Metal Keel Preparation and First Epoxy Coat

Because the 105/209 epoxy system is being used, the mixing ratio is 3:1 by volume (3.5:1 by weight). Keeping in mind that the minimum working temperature for 209B is 21°C and that thin-film curing at around 22°C will take 20 to 24 hours, protecting the keel from wind and keeping it warm during marina nights (e.g., by wrapping a temporary nylon tarp around it) will ensure proper curing.

Step 1 — Rough Cleaning to Bright Metal

Cast iron keels are porous structures that harbor moisture, rust, and salt.

1. Dust Removal: Sweep off the metal dust with a dry brush immediately after grinding, and wipe with Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) to remove grease and micro-particles.
2. Mechanical Scraping: All old paint, primer, and rust layers must be completely removed using a wire brush attachment on a grinder or coarse sanding discs (36-40 grit).
3. Target Appearance: Reach the “Bright Metal” stage where the surface is a shiny, clean gray/silver.

Step 2 — The Most Critical Phase: “Wet-Abrading” Technique

⚠ Why is this so critical? The moment iron is polished, it reacts with ambient moisture to form an invisible micro-oxide (rust) layer within seconds. If epoxy is applied to this dry surface, the rust layer will eventually cause the epoxy to delaminate. The West System wet-abrading technique reduces this risk to zero.

1. Mixing the Epoxy: In a small container, mix 105 Resin and 209B hardener at a 3:1 ratio for at least 1 minute, scraping the corners to ensure a homogeneous mix.

2. Applying the First Coat (Neat Epoxy): Immediately apply the mixture neat (unthinned) onto a small section of the keel (approx. 50×50 cm) using a roller or brush.

3. Wet-Abrading: While the epoxy is still completely wet, take 80-grit sandpaper (or a wet sanding block) and sand the metal through the epoxy layer.

• The Science: As the sandpaper carves new scratches into the metal, the metal cannot oxidize because there is no oxygen present (the surface is covered in epoxy). Fresh epoxy flows directly into these newly opened microscopic teeth, creating a chemically flawless, oxygen-free, and rust-proof mechanical bond.

4. Smoothing: After sanding, lightly scrape off the excess epoxy with a plastic spreader to smooth it out. Repeat this piece by piece until the entire keel is covered.

Step 3 — Epoxy Fairing and Subsequent Coats

When the first coat of wet-abraded epoxy begins to gel (green stage / tacky phase), it is ready to accept the subsequent coats.

1. Fairing Compound: When the first coat reaches tape-like tackiness, mix 105/209 epoxy with 407 Low-Density filler (and a tiny bit of 406 colloidal silica to prevent sagging) to create a peanut-butter consistency paste. Fill deep craters and voids in the keel with this compound.
2. Intercoat Transitions: Once the fairing compound dries, sand it smooth. Then apply the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th barrier coats of pure West System epoxy.
3. With the 105/209 system, wait for each coat to become slightly tacky before applying the next. Applying the new coat during this tacky phase ensures chemical bonding (Primary Bond) without the need for sanding between coats.

💡 Understanding the “Initial Cure / Green Stage”

• Masking Tape Test: Lightly touch the epoxy with a gloved finger. It should feel exactly like the sticky side of masking tape. It should lightly grip your finger, but no wet epoxy should transfer to your glove.
• Thumbnail Test: Press your thumbnail into the epoxy. It should feel like hard rubber and leave a slight indent. If it pushes in easily, it’s too soft. If it leaves no mark, it has entered the Solid State.
• The Advantage: Applying new epoxy during the tacky phase creates a fused primary bond, entirely eliminating the need to wash off amine blush and sand between coats. If you miss this window and it cures completely (Tack-Free), you must wash the amine blush and sand with 80-grit to create a mechanical Secondary Bond.

4. Keel Fairing and Filling Operations

The West System 105B Resin / 209B Extra Slow Hardener based paste preparation, application, and sanding fairing (tesviye) steps to be applied to fill the voids in the boat’s keel, draw the keel-hull joint line, and obtain a smooth hydrodynamic form are as follows according to technical manual standards:

4.1 Preparation of the Epoxy Fairing Compound

• Step 1 – Preparation of Pure Epoxy: Before starting to make the paste, the resin and hardener must absolutely be mixed before adding filler. 105 Resin and 209B Hardener should be taken into a clean container in exactly a 3:1 ratio by volume (three parts resin to one part hardener). With the help of a mixing stick, it should be mixed homogeneously for at least 1 minute by also scraping the edges and bottom corners of the container.
• Step 2 – Adding Filler Powders: After the plain mixture is finished, one should start adding the 407 Low Density Fairing Filler slowly to the mixture.
  • Target Consistency: The mixture must reach a full “Peanut Butter” consistency. The steep peaks formed when the mixing stick is lifted from the paste should stand straight and not run down. The thicker (plenty of powder) the paste is prepared, the easier it will be to sand when it dries.
  • Vertical Surface Assurance (Adding 406): Since the keel is a vertical surface, a very small (a pinch) amount of 406 Colloidal Silica can be added to the mixture along with 407 to prevent the paste from sliding downwards (sagging). This gives the paste vertical holding (sag-resistance) capability.

4.2 The “Wet-Out” Technique

If thick paste is applied directly to the dry sanded metal keel or gelcoat, the paste cannot fully penetrate the surface and adhesion remains weak.

• Wet-Out Application: Right before applying the paste, a thin coat of pure (no filler added) 105/209 epoxy mixture should be applied to the surface with the help of a roller or brush. This pure epoxy penetrates the microscopic pores on the surface and acts as a bridge.
• ⚠ Sagging Warning on Vertical Surfaces: If heavy epoxy paste is applied over it as soon as the pure epoxy is applied, the weight of the paste combined with the wet epoxy underneath can slide down the vertical surface. The most correct method is to wait for the pure epoxy applied as wet-out to gel slightly (become sticky/tacky), and then apply the paste over this sticky coat with a spatula.

4.3 Applying the Compound (Trowelling)

The prepared peanut butter consistency paste should be filled by pressing it thoroughly into the voids in the keel with the help of a hard plastic spatula (Spreaders). Pressing prevents an air pocket from remaining inside.
While smoothing the paste with a spatula, it should be left very slightly higher (bulging) than the surrounding surface elevation. Because even though epoxy does not shrink while curing, this margin is needed to be able to level it with the surroundings during sanding.
Excess paste residues around it should be cleaned by scraping with a spatula while it is still wet; it will be much harder to clean after it dries.

4.4. Curing and Waiting Time

• The 105 Resin and 209B hardener mixture needs a waiting time of at least 20 to 24 hours to completely solidify (reach sandable hardness) at late Yalova temperatures (average 22°C).
• While the paste is drying, the area around the keel should be protected against moisture, wind, and the dew (ıslaklık) effect that may occur towards the morning; moisture can ruin the structure of the epoxy.

4.5. Very Critical “Pre-Sanding Wash” Step (Amine Blush)

• ⚠ Why Is It Mandatory? As the epoxy cures, it forms a waxy, slippery layer (amine blush) on the surface. If sanding is started directly without cleaning this layer, this waxy structure will fill the teeth of your sandpaper in seconds, making the paper unusable.
• How is it Done?: Before running the sander, all pasted and epoxied surfaces must be washed by rubbing thoroughly with plenty of fresh water and a green Scotch-Brite sponge. The dissolved amine layer should be removed from the surface by drying it with clean paper towels before the surface dries.

4.6. Sanding and Fairing (Zımparalama ve Tesviye)

• Safety: A highly protective dust mask (along with safety glasses) must absolutely be used to avoid inhaling epoxy and filler powders.
• Sandpaper Selection: To quickly level thick paste excesses, work should be started with 60 or 80 grit sandpaper. When approaching the keel’s original hydrodynamic curved form (contour), a transition is made to 80 to 120 grit sandpaper to smooth the surface.
• Control: We must feel all the undulations and voids by running our hand over the hull and keel. If necessary, by holding the light parallel to the hull, the low areas from the shadows should be detected and a second coat of paste application should be repeated locally with the same steps.

4.7. Sealing (Final Coat Pure Epoxy)

The smooth surface obtained after the sanding process is finished has an open-pored and absorbent structure at the microscopic level due to the filler powders (407).

• To make these areas 100% waterproof against moisture and to close the pores, at least one or two coats of plain (pure) West System 105/209 epoxy sealing coat must be applied with a roller over all pasted areas that have been faired.
• After this final coat dries, by washing the amine blush with fresh water again and lightly sanding, a stone-like smooth floor ready for Coppercoat application will be obtained.

5. Coppercoat Application (The Big Application Day)

Coppercoat is a very special water-based and solvent-free epoxy antifouling. However, unlike classic antifouling paints, it dries chemically, not physically. For this reason, mixing ratios, timing, and roller techniques are of vital importance. For our application on August 31, all technical details and practical tips step by step are listed below:

5.1 Equipment and Area Preparation (Before Application)

• Correct Roller Selection: Coppercoat is absolutely not applied with a brush. For the application, a short-pile simulated mohair roller or a high-quality neoprene sponge roller should be used. Cheap sponge rollers with a cardboard core (cardboard-backed) must absolutely not be used; the epoxy dissolves the cardboard and causes the roller to fall apart.
• Personal Protective Equipment: Since epoxy can sensitize the skin, protective gloves and glasses must definitely be worn.
• Work Team: Since the hull area is approximately 26-28 m², doing this job alone is very straining in a limited time and causes the paint to gel in the container. The most ideal team is 3 people:
  • 1st Person: Only mixes the paint fresh, homogenizes the settled coppers, and distributes it to the roller trays.
  • 2nd Person: Spreads the paint onto the hull with a roller.
  • 3rd Person (Tipping-off): Comes immediately behind, passes lightly with a dry roller, and smooths out runs and roller marks.

5.2 The Mixing Ritual (Mixing the Gloop)

Coppercoat consists of three components: Pack A (resin), Pack B (hardener), and pure copper powder (bag of fine copper powder).

• Only 1 Unit (1 Liter) is Mixed: To prevent waste and the paint from heating up early in the container and gelling, Coppercoat should be mixed in only 1-liter units at a time.
• Mix A and B: First, Pack A and Pack B should be emptied into a suitably sized plastic container and mixed thoroughly among themselves.
• Add the Copper Powder: While continuing to mix, the copper powder is added slowly. Mixing is continued until one is sure that all the copper powder has become completely homogeneous and remains suspended in the liquid (suspension).

⚠ Adding Thinner (IPA) — Vital Detail: After the mixture is homogeneous, a maximum of 5% Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) should be added and mixed to ease the fluidity. IPA must always be added at the very beginning of the mixing process. Paint thickens as it sits in the container; however, adding IPA later to thickened paint completely ruins its chemical curing structure. As a practical measure, approximately 3 caps of IPA using a half-liter thinner bottle cap is sufficient for every 1-liter unit.

• Mixing During Use: Since copper is a very heavy metal, it quickly settles to the bottom of the container. Just before pouring the paint into the roller tray, the container must definitely be mixed again to disperse the settlement.

5.3 Pot Life Management

In Yalova at the end of August, air temperatures are in the 25-30°C range. As the temperature increases, the chemical reaction accelerates, and the time the paint stays in the container (pot life) shortens.

• At 20°C temperature: Pot life is approximately 30 minutes.
• At 30°C temperature: This time drops to 20 minutes.
• Practical Precaution: As soon as the mixing is finished, the paint should be poured immediately into the roller tray without waiting in the container. The wide surface area in the tray allows the heat to dissipate, slowing the reaction and allowing more working time. By frequently moving the paint in the tray with the roller, the copper should be prevented from settling to the bottom.

5.4 Wet-on-Tacky Application Techniques

To reach the minimum 360-micron wet film thickness, which is Coppercoat’s protection thickness, it is mandatory to apply consecutively at least 4 to 5 coats. The adhesion between coats must be chemical, and therefore all coats must be applied continuously within the same day.

• Application Cycle: On the Bavaria 36, after starting from port and finishing the first coat towards starboard, the starting point will probably have reached the tackiness (tacky) to accept the next coat (approx. 1 hour at 20°C). Therefore, the painting process is a continuous cycle that goes on without stopping.
• Application in Thin Coats: One should never try to apply a single coat thickly. Thickly applied coats cause runs and sagging on vertical surfaces. Always apply thin coats; the strength of the paint will be formed by the layers chemically bonding to each other.
• Changing Direction (Cross-Rolling): When applying the paint with the roller, the direction must be changed in each coat (for example, 1st coat with vertical movements, 2nd coat with horizontal movements). This method guarantees that no unpainted blind spots remain at the micro level on the surface.
• Consuming All Material: Applying coats should continue until all 8 units are finished. Although it usually looks like the paint is finished at the 4th coat, feeding all the units on hand to the hull and completing the 5th coat as well will maximize the copper density (DFT 200 microns).
• Removing the Tapes: As soon as the final coat is finished, the masking tapes must be removed while the paint is still wet. Removing the tapes after the epoxy has completely dried leads to the breaking or peeling of the paint edges.

5.5 Critical Curing Conditions After Application

⚠ Vital Warning: After the application is finished, the boat must absolutely be protected from rain and water contact for at least 48 hours. If the epoxy comes into contact with water before curing, it will dissolve and run (since it is water-based).

After completing the 4th Day seamlessly and flawlessly in this way, our paint will cure on its own for 5 days.

6. Day 7: Activation (Burnishing) Sanding of the Copper

This process is a vital touch that will maximize the anti-fouling performance of the system we applied under the sea from day one.

6.1 Why Do We Do Activation (Burnishing)?

Coppercoat is an epoxy resin with extremely high copper density. After the application is finished and the paint is completely cured, the copper particles on the surface are covered with a transparent epoxy layer at a microscopic level.

• If we launch the boat directly into the water like this, the epoxy layer prevents the copper from coming into contact with seawater, and the paint cannot be sufficiently active against fouling in the first months.
• Goal: To strip off this microscopic epoxy film on the surface with a fine and light sanding and to expose the pure copper powder (99% purity) directly to the outside world. This process engages the protection power of the paint 100% from the first second it goes into the water.

6.2 Materials to be Used and Preparation

• Sandpaper Selection: Coarse sandpapers must absolutely not be used. According to the technical manual, the most ideal choice is 400 to 600 grit (grade) “Wet & Dry” (Sulu) sandpaper or fine green/gray Scotch-Brite felt pads.
• Equipment: Plenty of fresh water (bucket, sponge, or a lightly spraying hose) and clean cloths.
• Safety: Since this process will be done wet, dust will not come out, but latex gloves and protective glasses should continue to be used to prevent copper residues from coming into contact with the skin.

6.3 Step by Step Activation Technique

6.3.1. Wet Sanding

• Sanding must absolutely not be done dry. Dry sanding both scratches the Coppercoat surface excessively and causes the sandpaper to fill up and become dull in seconds.
• The area to be worked on should be wetted abundantly with a hose or sponge, and work should be done by dipping the sandpaper in water and keeping the surface always wet.

6.3.2. Application Movement (Car Bonnet Technique)

• The sandpaper should not be pressed hard onto the surface; the goal is not to reduce the thickness of the paint.
• Golden Advice: One can move the sandpaper or Scotch-Brite pad over the surface with light, circular, and soft movements as if applying polish to a car bonnet.

6.3.3. Observing the Color Change (Visual Control)

• When sanding starts, the Coppercoat surface is matte, dull, and dark brown/copper color.
• As you sand lightly, the transparent epoxy will be stripped away, and a metallic, bright, greenish/golden fresh copper color will be revealed from underneath.
• When no dull brown areas remain on the hull and the entire hull homogeneously achieves this bright metallic copper appearance, it means the process in that area has been successfully completed.

6.3.4. Dust and Mud Cleaning

• During sanding, a gray/brown muddy water containing copper dust will accumulate on the surface.
• Without allowing this mud to dry and stay on the hull, the entire hull should be washed with plenty of clean fresh water and completely rinsed. When the process is finished, the hull will have a smooth, velvety, and slightly shining metallic texture.

6.4 Touch-up of the Pad Areas

When the boat is suspended by the crane, there will be unpainted or unsanded local areas left under the pads.

• After quickly applying the final coat of touch-up paint to these areas, it is waited to dry locally (if necessary, curing can be accelerated with a heat gun).
• Then, these small touched-up areas are also activated by lightly rubbing them with a wet Scotch-Brite or 400 grit sandpaper just before going into the water.

💡 Conclusion: Galene Nomad is now completely ready to meet the blue waters and make you forget the trouble of applying antifouling paint every year for at least 10-15 years!